One Mien girl's cap of embroidered black cotton. A close-fitting cap of black cloth covered with fine embroidery in the "weaving stitch" (all vertical lines). A large woolen pom-pom encircles the top like a crown, and a ball- shaped one covers each ear. Hand-made. The Thai ethnic group which calls itself "Mien" probably originated in China about 2000 years ago; they use Chinese characters in their writing. The women are skilled embroiderers, producing ornate caps for their children and sumptuously patterned pants for themselves. Surprisingly, they work from the back of the cloth and cannot "see" the pattern until it is turned over. Girls are taught to embroider from the age of 5 or 6. They start with the original (standard) five patterns, and gradually add their to their repertoire as they gain in skill. A mother may make pants and tunic for her daughter when the child is 4 or 5. Girls wear caps until they are 9 or 10, although on festive occasions, even small girls may wear turbans. The costume of a woman consists of loose-fitting pants, ankle-length tunic, sash, and turban.

1987.026.001